Visiting a Magical World of Hans Christian Andersen's Birthplace in Scandinavia

Looking at my reflection, I appear to be wearing huge golden pantaloons, seen just for my eyes. Youngsters sit in a rock pool acting as sea nymphs, and adjacent sits a chatting legume in a display case, alongside a towering pile of mattresses. It represents the universe of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), one of the 19th century’s widely adored authors. I find myself in this Danish town, located on Fyn in the southern part of Denmark, to explore the author's lasting influence in his birthplace 150 years after his death, and to discover a handful of fairytales of my own.

The Exhibition: H.C. Andersen's House

The H.C. Andersen Museum is the city’s cultural center celebrating the writer, incorporating his childhood house. A museum representative notes that in past designs of the museum there was scant attention on his fairytales. Andersen's biography was studied, but The Ugly Duckling were missing. For visitors who visit this place looking for fairytale wonder, it was not quite enough.

The redesign of the city center, diverting a main thoroughfare, made it possible to reimagine how the renowned native could be commemorated. An international design contest gave the architects from Japan Kengo Kuma and Associates the commission, with the museum's fresh perspective at the core of the layout. The unique wooden museum with interwoven spiralling spaces launched to significant attention in 2021. “We have attempted to build a place where we don’t talk about the author, but we talk like Andersen: with humour, irony and perspective,” explains the representative. The landscape design follow this philosophy: “It’s a garden for wanderers and for giants, it’s designed to give you a sense of smallness,” he explains, a challenge achieved by thoughtful gardening, experimenting with elevation, size and numerous twisting trails in a surprisingly compact space.

The Author's Influence

Andersen wrote multiple personal accounts and often contradicted himself. The exhibition adopts this philosophy seriously; often the perspectives of his acquaintances or snippets of correspondence are displayed to subtly challenge the writer's personal account of events. “The author is the guide, but his account isn't always accurate,” notes the representative. The outcome is a fascinating whirlwind tour of his personal story and work, thought processes and best-loved narratives. This is thought-provoking and whimsical, for mature visitors and children, with a bonus basement imaginary world, Ville Vau, for the children.

Exploring Odense

Back in the real world, the modest urban center of Odense is charming, with cobbled streets and old wooden houses painted in cheerful shades. The author's presence is ubiquitous: the road indicators display the storyteller with his distinctive formal headwear, brass footprints provide a no-cost guided stroll, and there’s a outdoor exhibition too. Each summer this commitment peaks with the yearly HC Andersen festival, which celebrates the writer's impact through visual arts, movement, theatre and music.

This year, the multi-day celebration had hundreds of events, most of which were free. During my time in the city, I encounter colorful performers on stilts, ghoulish monsters and an author double telling stories. I listen to feminist spoken-word pieces and observe an amazing evening show with acrobatic dancers descending from the city building and dangling from a mechanical arm. Future activities in the coming months are lectures, hands-on activities and, broadening the storytelling legacy further than the writer, the city’s yearly wonder event.

Every excellent fairytale destinations need a fortress, and Fyn boasts numerous historic homes and stately homes across the island

Cycling and Exploration

As in much of the country, bicycles are the perfect means to travel around in the city and a “bicycle route” curves through the urban core. Departing from the local hotel, I pedal to the public port-side aquatic facility, then beyond the city for a loop around the nearby islet, a tiny landmass connected by causeway to the mainland. City residents have outdoor meals here in the evening, or enjoy a peaceful time catching fish, water sports or taking a dip.

Returning to the city, I eat at a local eatery, where the culinary offerings is inspired by author-inspired concepts and narratives. The literary work the patriotic piece is highlighted at the restaurant, and manager the restaurateur shares excerpts, translated into English, as he presents each course. Such encounters frequent in my time in Odense, the local residents enjoy storytelling and it appears narrating is always on the menu here.

Castle Explorations

All good enchanted locations deserve a palace, and this region features 123 castles and estates across the island. Traveling briefly from Odense, I explore the historic fortress, the continent's finely maintained Renaissance water castle. While much of it are available for tours, the castle is also the personal dwelling of the aristocratic owners and his partner, the princess. I contemplate if she would notice a tiny vegetable through a stack of {mattresses

Christina Young
Christina Young

A passionate historian and travel writer specializing in Italian cultural heritage and preservation efforts.