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Jack Martin

Hair Color Expert based in the West Coast who specialises in silver hair. Among his clientele are Hollywood stars and Andie MacDowell.

What affordable item can't you live without?

I swear by a gentle drying cloth, or even a gentle tee to towel-dry your locks. Most people don’t realise how much stress a regular bath towel can do, especially to silver or chemically treated hair. This one small change can really reduce frizz and breakage. Another inexpensive must-have is a large-gap comb, to use in the shower. It safeguards your strands while removing knots and helps preserve the strength of the hair shafts, notably following coloring.

What item or service justifies the extra cost?

A high-quality styling iron – made with advanced materials, with precise heat settings. Lightened strands can develop brassy tones or get damaged without the correct device.

What style or process should you always avoid?

At-home lightening. Internet videos often simplify it, but the truth is it’s one of the biggest gambles you can do to your hair. I’ve witnessed clients cause irreversible harm, snap their strands or end up with uneven tones that are nearly impossible to correct. It's best to steer clear of chemical straightening processes on pre-lightened strands. Such treatments are often overly harsh for weakened hair and can cause chronic issues or discoloration.

What frequent error do you observe?

Individuals choosing unsuitable formulas for their particular strand characteristics. Certain clients overapply toning shampoo until their blonde or grey strands looks drab and lacking shine. Others rely too much on strengthening conditioners and end up with unmanageable, weak locks. A further common mistake is thermal styling minus a barrier. If you’re using hot tools or dryers without a heat protectant, – notably with color-treated strands – you’re going to see brassiness, lack of moisture and splitting.

What would you suggest for thinning hair?

Shedding demands a multifaceted plan. Topically, minoxidil is still one of the most effective treatments. I often suggest scalp serums with caffeine or peptides to enhance nutrient delivery and support follicle health. Applying a cleansing scalp wash often helps remove residue and allows solutions to be more efficient. Supplements such as Nutrafol or Viviscal Pro have also shown notable improvements. They work internally to benefit externally by addressing hormonal imbalances, anxiety and dietary insufficiencies.

For those seeking higher-level solutions, blood-derived therapies – where a personalized serum is applied – can be beneficial. However, I consistently recommend getting a professional diagnosis beforehand. Shedding may relate to internal factors, and it’s important to identify the source rather than seeking quick fixes.

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A Trichology Expert

Scalp and Hair Scientist and leader in hair health clinics and product ranges for hair loss.

What’s your routine for trims and color?

I get my hair cut every 10 to 12 weeks, but will trim off splits at home bi-weekly to keep my ends healthy, and have highlights done every eight weeks.

Which low-cost item is a game-changer?

Hair-thickening particles are absolutely amazing if you have see-through sections. They attach using static to your strands, and it comes in a range of colors, making it virtually undetectable. I personally applied it after childbirth when I had a lot of hair fall – and also currently as I’m going through some considerable hair loss after having awful flu a few months ago. As hair isn’t an essential tissue, it’s the earliest indicator of health issues when your intake is insufficient, so I would also recommend a balanced, nutritious diet.

Which premium option is truly valuable?

For those with genetic thinning in women, I’d say doctor-recommended solutions. For excessive daily hair shedding, AKA telogen effluvium (TE), buying an retail solution is fine, but for FPHL you really do need clinical interventions to see the most effective improvements. In my opinion, minoxidil compounded with other hair-supportive actives – such as endocrine regulators, blockers and/or soothing agents – works best.

What should you always skip?

Rosemary extracts for shedding. It doesn’t work. This idea originated from a limited 2015 research that compared the effects of a mild minoxidil solution versus rosemary extract. A mild formula such as 2% is inadequate to do much for genetic balding in men, so the study is basically saying they are equally minimal in effect.

Likewise, mega-doses of biotin. Hardly anyone is biotin deficient, so taking it is unlikely to do your hair any good, and it can alter thyroid level measurements.

What blunder stands out often?

I think the term “hair washing” should be changed to “scalp cleansing” – because the primary purpose of washing is to clear away sebum, debris, sweat and pollutants. I notice clients skipping washes as they think it’s damaging to their locks, when in fact the opposite is true – especially if you have dandruff, which is worsened by the presence of excess oils. When sebum remains on the skin, they deteriorate and lead to inflammation.

Regrettably, follicular health and strand desires can differ, so it’s a careful compromise. But as long as you are gentle when you shampoo and handle wet hair with care, it shouldn't harm your hair.

Which product, treatment or supplement would you recommend for hair loss?

With female pattern loss, minoxidil is essential. Scientific support is substantial and tends to be most effective combined with additional ingredients. Should you wish to enhance minoxidil's benefits, or you choose to avoid it or cannot tolerate it, you could try micro-needling (under professional care), and perhaps injections or laser devices.

With telogen effluvium, investigation is key. Excessive daily shedding occurs in response to an internal factor. In some instances, the trigger is short-term – such as flu, Covid or a period of intense stress – and it will improve spontaneously. Alternatively, endocrine issues or nutrient shortages may be the cause – the most common being ferritin (stored iron), vitamin B12 and vitamin D deficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus